Duino the small town in Northern Italy and its rich history

Duino is a charming town in northeastern Italy, located on the scenic road between Monfalcone and Trieste in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. It has inspired famous writers like Hemingway, Rilke, and Joyce. Visitors come here for the area’s rich history, culture, and stunning landscapes where Italy, Slovenia, Austria, and Croatia meet.

The village, known as Devin in Slovenian and Tybein in German, sits on the Adriatic coast. Two castles dominate the area: the ruins of the old castle, filled with legends, and the impressive new castle, which offers fantastic sea views. Archaeological finds show that people have lived here since the Late Copper Age, making Duino a place full of history and beauty.

And here, I will tell you more about the history, nature, and legends of Duino-Aurissina.

The Ancient Foundations of Duino-Aurissina:

Duino’s history stretches far back into ancient times. Archaeologists have found artifacts from pre-Roman tribes like the Eugani, Veneti, and Histri in nearby caves, such as Riparo di Visogliano and Caverna Romana. When the Romans founded the colony of Aquileia in 181 BC, Duino became part of their story. The Romans built a port, grew vineyards, and quarried marble from Aurisina; using the marble in monuments in Ravenna demonstrates Duino’s significant importance in the ancient world.

Barbarians at the Gate: Duino in the Middle Ages:

After the fall of the Roman Empire, barbarians invaded the region through the Alps, shaping Duino’s medieval history. By the 13th century, Duino had grown in importance, with the Abbey of San Giovanni al Timavo and the Castle of Duino becoming key landmarks. The first mention of Duino in writing appears in the 1211 Peace of Timavo. Over the years, the town was ruled by different powers, from the Patriarch of Aquileia to the Habsburgs in 1395. The influential della Torre family took over in 1587, bringing wealth and stability.

Venetians and Ottomans: A Struggle for Control:

Duino’s location on the Adriatic Sea was hot during the wars between Venice and the Ottoman Empire. These battles, which lasted nearly a century, left Duino’s old castle in ruins. The castle’s destruction is a reminder of the region’s turbulent past when Venice fought to protect its maritime empire.

Duino in the Modern Era: Revival and Conflict:

The construction of the Vienna-Trieste railway in 1857 breathed new life into Duino-Aurissina, boosting local industries like the marble quarries. However, World War I brought devastation. Nearby, fierce battles took place between Italian and Austro-Hungarian forces, leaving scars on both the land and its people.

After World War I, Duino-Aurissina became an official municipality in 1928. World War II brought more conflict, and the area changed hands several times before finally becoming part of Italy in 1954. Because of its location near the Slovenian and Austrian borders, Duino still has a diverse population today, with signs written in Italian and Slovenian, reflecting its rich cultural heritage.

What to see in Duino and the surrounding area:

The old and the new castle

The Duino Castles are the area’s crown jewels, combining historical depth and breathtaking views. The Old Castle, now in ruins, dates back to at least the 11th century. It played a strategic defensive role in protecting the coastline during the medieval period but was destroyed during the wars between Venice and the Ottoman Empire in the late 15th century. Despite its ruin, the old castle retains a romantic allure, with legends surrounding its ancient walls. According to one local tale, the “White Lady,” a ghostly figure, haunts the ruins, mourning the loss of her beloved.

The New Castle, built in the 14th century and continually restored over the years, still stands in majestic contrast to the ruins of the old fortress. Overlooking the Gulf of Trieste, it has hosted numerous famous figures, including the poet Rainer Maria Rilke, who wrote part of his Duino Elegies here. The Thurn und Taxis family still owns the castle and houses a museum with historical artifacts, including memorabilia from Rilke’s time. Visitors can explore the castle’s grand halls and walk along its stunning panoramic terrace, offering views that stretch out over the Adriatic.

The Rilke Trail:

The Rilke Trail is a 2-kilometer coastal path between Duino and Sistiana. It is named after the poet Rainer Maria Rilke. Rilke visited the area in 1911 as a guest of Princess Marie von Thurn und Taxis and found the Adriatic’s dramatic cliffs and crashing waves deeply inspiring. During his stay at Duino Castle, Rilke began his famous collection of poetry, the Duino Elegies, which reflects the profound emotions stirred by the landscape.

The trail offers stunning views of the Adriatic Sea from atop rugged limestone cliffs, with glimpses of the Duino Castle. Plaques with excerpts from Rilke’s work can be found along the trail, adding a poetic dimension to the scenic walk. The route is a favorite for both casual hikers and literary enthusiasts.

The Church of San Giovanni in Tubo and the mouth of the river Timavo:

The Timavo River is a fascinating natural marvel known for its mysterious and unusual journey. It starts as regular rivers do, flowing above ground in Slovenia, but then something remarkable happens—it disappears underground! For about 40 kilometers, the Timavo flows beneath the earth, traveling through hidden caves and tunnels before reemerging near Duino, close to the Adriatic Sea. From there, it flows into the sea, completing its unique path.

This disappearing act has puzzled and inspired people for thousands of years. Because of its strange behavior, the river was considered sacred in ancient times. Romans built temples near its mouth, and poets like Virgil wrote about its mystery. Even today, the underground portion of the Timavo remains a subject of study and curiosity, as its exact route still needs to be fully understood.

The area where the river resurfaces near Duino is known as the “Bocca del Timavo” (Mouth of the Timavo). The sound of the rushing water and the sense of the river’s long, secret journey adds to the mystical atmosphere. This natural wonder has also played an essential role in the local culture and spirituality for centuries, making it a place where nature’s secrets and human history are deeply intertwined.

One particular place to feel this magic is the Church of San Giovanni in Tubo, which sits close to where the river reemerges. Built in medieval times, the church has stood for centuries as a peaceful place of worship. Inside, you can still sense the deep connection to the river as the water passes underneath the church, adding to its spiritual significance. The church is a must-visit for anyone interested in history, nature, and the wonder of ancient times, offering a glimpse into a world where nature and faith come together.

The Great Cave

Located just a short drive from Duino, the Grotta Gigante is one of the largest tourist-accessible caves in the world. This colossal cave, which reaches a height of 107 meters and a length of 280 meters, is truly a marvel of natural architecture. Formed over millions of years by the action of underground rivers, the cave was first explored in 1840, but it was in the early 20th century that it was mapped and opened to the public.

Grotta Gigante is an incredible geological and scientific site. Instruments inside the cave monitor tectonic activity and seismic movements, making it a valuable resource for geophysicists. Guided tours take visitors through the vast chambers filled with stalactites, stalagmites, and other striking rock formations, making it a must-see for anyone interested in geology or natural wonders.

Antonio the Dinosaur and the Museum of Natural History in Trieste

Just a short distance from Duino, the Museum of Natural History in Trieste is home to a remarkable find: Antonio the Dinosaur, one of the best-preserved dinosaur skeletons ever discovered in Italy. Antonio, a hadrosaur species, was found in 1994 near the village of Villaggio del Pescatore, just north of Duino. The nearly complete skeleton is around 70 million years old and provides incredible insights into the prehistoric life of the region.

The museum offers exhibits on local and global natural history, from paleontology and geology to zoology. Antonio is undoubtedly the star attraction, especially for families and dinosaur enthusiasts, offering a fascinating glimpse into the region’s ancient past.

The Castle of Miramar in Trieste

The Castle of Miramar (Castello di Miramare) is another nearby must-visit attraction on a peninsula outside Trieste. Built-in the 19th century for Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Austria and his wife, Charlotte of Belgium, the castle is a stunning example of romantic architecture. Its fairytale-like design, white walls, and expansive views over the Gulf of Trieste make it feel like something out of a storybook.

However, is tinged with tragedy. After building Miramar, Ferdinand Maximilian was persuaded to become Emperor of Mexico, where he was eventually executed. Charlotte, devastated by his death, returned to Europe and lived out her days in seclusion. The castle and its lush, well-manicured gardens are open to the public, with interiors that reflect the opulent lifestyle of the Austrian nobility. Today, it houses a museum that preserves many of the rooms as they were during the Archduke’s time, complete with original furniture and décor.

These attractions showcase the rich blend of history, nature, and culture, making Duino and its surroundings a unique destination. From ancient castles and poetic trails to underground rivers and prehistoric fossils, Duino offers a journey through time that captures the imagination of every visitor.

Why Duino is a Cultural Gem:

Duino is not just about its beautiful views—it’s also a global hub for education. The United World College of the Adriatic, located in Duino, brings together students from over 180 countries. This international school adds a vibrant cultural mix to the town, creating a unique blend of local traditions and global influences. But what truly makes Duino a unique and fascinating place to visit is its rich history, a small town with a big heart where the past and present come together beautifully.

Where to Stay and Eat:

This small village offers plenty of cozy places to stay, with nine hotels, six charming B&Bs, and several private homes for rent. Food lovers will be in heaven here! You can find everything from friendly pizzerias serving delicious wood-fired pizzas to fancy restaurants offering gourmet versions of traditional Friulian dishes. The local cuisine is a delightful mix influenced by nearby Austria and Slovenia. The area is famous for its prosciutto, rich cheeses, and beautiful wines, making every meal an experience. If you enjoy tasting history, you’ll love the unique flavors shaped by the region’s long, rich past.

How to Get to Duino:

The closest airport is in Trieste, near Monfalcone. Bus G51 takes you directly to Duino from the airport, or you can catch Bus 44 from Trieste’s Piazza Oberdan. The ride offers stunning views of the coastline, a fitting preview of the beauty waiting for you in Duino.

In future posts, I’ll explore Duino’s top attractions, hidden gems, and the surrounding area—so stay tuned for more!

Regards from Duino

XOXO